Weekly update 05.06.2016

With the floor now levelled, work on the dining room has continued this week.

Having previously removed and disposed of the old internal doors, my priority was to get the new kitchen door hung to minimise dust and dirt into the kitchen. For some reason, the upper hinge of the old door was about 18" from the top of the frame, much lower than it should be. I started to cut a new rebate at a more conventional 6" from the top, only to find an old rebate that had been poorly patched over. I therefore cut a new rebate just below it, before changing my mind and resurrecting the rebate in the correct position. Scrap wood and filler was used to infill the other rebates and the whole frame was then prepared for painting.

Next to the skirting boards... The board below the radiator has been a real challenge. The radiator pipes have been installed too close to the wall to allow space for the skirting board. The only way to get the board into position was to install it in three sections. Two of these had to be routed to accommodate the pipes.

As painting them in situ would be almost impossible, the boards were primed and topcoated before fitting. The ends of the boards were mitred at 45 degrees to ensure a good fit.

The rest of the skirtings were cut to length and the ends primed. The new door was trimmed to size, rebated for hinges and latch and then primed and topcoated.

Scrap timber spacers were fitted to the walls using grab adhesive...

...and then the skirtings fitted, also with grab adhesive.

For the dining room fireplace, the plan is to tile the base so we ordered a couple of sample Moroccan tiles from Walls and Floors. These measure a substantial 600mm x 600mm x 10.5mm and are made from porcelain. We've decided on the monochrome one and so will need just one more of these to fill the space.

Back to the kitchen step, the timber tread has now been fitted and primed and a plaster skim has been applied to the surface of the riser. The plaster has been primed with a mist coat of diluted emulsion followed by a couple of coats of acrylic undercoat.

And now... another window refurb!!

As with the previous windows, the staff and parting beads have been removed, followed by the sashes themselves. Then the weight pockets were opened up and the weights removed. Once again, the weights are inadequate for the sashes so will need upgrading.

And the grotty pulleys need replacing...

Jacqui has been sanding the old paint off the sashes and, with the window temporarily boarded up, the door painting has continued.

Having run out of suitable replacement sash weights, it's time to cast some more lead. Whilst the previous attempt was ok, this is the new, improved mould. Starting with two pieces of 30mm timber, I drilled a pair of matching holes into the surface of each. With a short dowel inserted in each, the two pieces of timber will remain perfectly aligned. Then, with the two pieces firmly clamped together, a 40mm hole-saw was used to bore a hole directly down the centre. The hole made by the pilot drill was then opened up to accept a length of 9mm diameter dowel.

Clamped together, this provides a cylindrical mould with the dowel ensuring a central hole for the sash rope.

Some cut-up lead flashing provides the material for the weight. This was melted in a small aluminium pan using a blow-torch and poured into the mould.

Anyone for a lead lollipop??