Weekly update 26.06.2016

Part of the space behind the fireplace is still visible when the cast iron backplate is fitted so I needed something to fill the space which would be in keeping with the hearth itself. The hearth is black marble so I managed to get hold of a sample polished porcelain tile (courtesy of Walls and Floors) which has a very similar finish.

Before I could fit this, I needed to raise the base of the fireplace so that the tile could be fitted flush with the hearth.

The surface of the hearth sits about 60mm from the floor so, allowing for the 9mm tile plus a few mm for tile adhesive, I cut some 44mm battens. These were nailed to a length of spare T&G board and positioned in the base of the chimney breast.

Next, I poured and levelled concrete between the battens.

Once this had set, the battens were extracted...

...and the channels filled with concrete.

The hearth itself has some chips along the front edge, some of which were probably caused when it was levered out of position in its previous home.

Having considered a range of options, I decided to try some Milliput. This is a two part, self coloured epoxy putty which resembles modelling clay. Equal amounts are kneaded together for a few minutes and can then be applied to the damaged area. Adding water helps with malleability and adhesion.

This was left to set overnight...

...then trimmed back with a sharp knife blade and polished with cutting paste. Not perfect but much better than it was.

The cast iron fireplace components were starting to show signs of corrosion so Jacqui has cleaned them up using Brasso and black grate polish.

Good as new.

To save having to paint round the fireplace, the chimney breast was painted before fitting.

And whilst at it, the woodwork has been rubbed down and, where necessary, filled with 2 part filler.

Now that the paint and the concrete base are dry, the hearth can be fitted. As this is not going to be a functional fireplace, the hearth needs only tacking in place using a few dabs of grab adhesive to hold it in position.

We got the second sample tile for the dining room fireplace...

...and these have been cut to size ready for laying.

Weekly update 19.06.2016

Work on the dining room has continued this week. The sash window is now refitted, nicely balanced, runs smoothly and locks too.

Whilst prepping the walls for painting, I thought it prudent to knock out a hole for the TV aerial socket. I chose a position in line with the drop cable on the outside wall and at the same height as the power sockets on the adjacent wall. To prevent the plaster from cracking, I scored the outline and a grid pattern using a sharp knife.

A single gang 25mm pattress will be sunk into the wall, fitted with a standard co-axial TV socket plate from the MK logic range to match the other sockets in the room.

I then set the depth gauge on the SDS percussion drill to about 26mm and "pepper pot" drilled round the profile.

The chisel attachment was then fitted to the SDS drill and the brickwork chiselled away to form a neat recess. A pair of 5.5mm fixing holes were drilled into the back and an 8mm hole drilled right through to the outside. This is at a slight downward angle to discourage any stray rainwater from finding its way in.

On the outside, it was necessary to extend the aerial cable by about a metre. Previously, the cable had been run through a hole in the window frame (which is what had caused the frame to rot so badly) and was therefore too short to reach the new, lower position. The neatest way to join this is with a pair of F-connectors and a coupler. F-connectors are threaded so are much more secure than a standard co-ax connector. The ends of the cable were stripped and prepared and the connectors fitted. These were then joined by firmly screwing them onto the coupler.

The joint needs to be completely watertight... even the smallest amount of moisture will cause corrosion and will play havoc with the TV signal. Self-amalgamating tape is often used for this purpose, but I have found it to be a bit temperamental so I ordered some 15mm 3:1 ratio, adhesive lined heat-shrink sleeving. This is just big enough to slide over the connection then, when heated with a heat gun, it shrinks down tight onto the connector and the cable either side and the internal adhesive melts to form a total seal to prevent water ingress.

7mm cable clips were used to secure the cable to the wall, leaving a hanging loop at the bottom to prevent rain water running down the cable and into the wall.

Back on the inside, the pattress could then be fitted and a little skimming plaster applied round the edges. Once dry, this was sanded back to a smooth finish.

The skirtings have been sealed along the top edges and into the corners using decorators caulk and a coat of undercoat applied.

Then, using a 10% diluted mist coat of white emulsion, the cutting-in could begin...

...and the walls and ceiling mist coated using a roller.

Then a couple of topcoats of emulsion to finish off.

And with the painting complete and dry, the co-ax socket could be fitted. For a MK product, I found the method of connection particularly poor, probably not helped by the stiffness of the cable.

The dining room door frame is in need of a bit of work... the hinge positions are correct but the rebates are a little too deep and too wide for the new hinges. The screw holes are also in the wrong positions. A piece of stripwood was cut to size to reduce the width and some scrap timber was whittled down to plug the old screw holes. PVA was used to secure these.

Once the adhesive was cured, some filler was applied and sanded back to a smooth finish. The frame could then be primed, ready for painting at a later stage.

Jacqui has spent a lot of time removing the charring from the brickwork at the rear of the open fireplace. It was also in need of a bit of re-pointing.

We're hoping to retain the exposed brickwork as a feature, but will take a view once the mortar has fully set and been cleaned up - the alternative is a coat or two of white masonry paint.

Once the mortar had dried, Jacqui set about painting the inner sides of the fireplace with white masonry paint.

As the dining room is nearing completion, the lounge has been temporarily relocated into the space.

With the lounge cleared of furniture, the edges of the floor could finally be sealed with expanding foam... may have overdone it a little!!

Before spraying the foam, I ran a new length of 3-pair telephone cabling through from the hall and along the edge of the floor. This will supply the master socket which I will locate to the right of the bay window and then an extension cable will continue round the bay window into the opposite corner of the room where a second socket will be installed.

So now the skirtings could be fitted. Once again, grab adhesive was used to secure them.

 

Whilst I had some mortar mixed up for re pointing the fireplace, I took the opportunity to finish sealing off the old drain under the kitchen window.

Weekly update 12.06.2016

This week, we've concentrated on completing the dining room window. The sashes were so under-weighted that we had to go and buy some extra scrap lead to melt down and cast make-weights.

The carcass was cleaned up, sanded and re-painted, then the pulley rebates opened up to take the new brass pulleys.

Meanwhile, new parting beads and staff beads were cut and painted.

The new pulleys arrived just in time and were promptly fitted.

New sash cords were attached to the weights and the additional lead weights threaded on...

...and the assembled weights inserted into the carcass.

Meanwhile, Jacqui has been preparing and painting the outside of the bathroom window frame...

...and the transom window.

Back to the skirting boards... the final, centre section of the skirting has been pre-painted and fitted under the radiator. This will just need a little filler to cover the mitred joints.

 And the dining room door is now fully painted and has been hung.